California Love: An Outstanding Detour Part I

(Sighing) This always happens to me. I ran into the same crummy problem last time around.

After weeks where nothing was really happening, suddenly the past week and a half flew by in a torrent. Now I'm playing catch-up; I endeavor to remember the copious amount of memories, details, and emotions that . I ran into the same issue when I first blogged in Japan: one moment I realized I had gone more than a week without posting. Will I ever learn?

By the end of Thursday, June 30th my belongings were packed, my apartment was mostly cleaned and they keys returned, my car was sold, and I had said goodbye to just about all my friends. The Spokane chapter of my life was complete; with the ink dried it was time to press on.

My life in a nutshell. The beer was consumed that evening at a going away party.

The next morning I flew to Sacramento and after a few hours of travel I arrived at the airport where I was reunited with my parents. On the 3rd my parents and I celebrated my dad's birthday, which went really well, and the following morning we hit the road to tour the coast. My mom is on vacation and wanted to leave town; I desired to see Firestone Walker Brewing Co. and Hearst Castle; my dad, an avid birder, hoped to identify new species along the coast. We set off for the beautiful coastal town of Cambria, which offered us delightful views of the ocean and good food.

On Tuesday the 5th we awoke bright and early to see Hearst Castle followed by Firestone Walker Brewing Co. I remember seeing pictures and reading a bit about the mansion in the past; I hadn't realized my family was staying so close to it (only about a ten minute drive from the motel). We arrived in time to watch a quick forty minute movie at the visitor's center before our bus to the top of the hill. The movie was remarkable; whoever produced it knew what they were doing. It gave us an interactive history of William Hearst and his beginnings, his desire to build the house, and the legacy he left for not just the people of California but humanity as a whole. The movie definitely excited us for the planned tours later that morning.

Hearst Castle sits at the top of a hill in San Simeon; visitors take a fifteen minute bus tour up the hill and quickly get a sense of how many acres of land Hearst owned at the pinnacle of his life. The landscape is littered with cattle from the ranch the Hearst family still owns and operates. All that was missing as we approached the gates, with the voice of Alex Trebek upselling the mansion over the bus' speakers, was "Welcome to Jurassic Park".

It took about twenty eight years to finish building Hearst Castle as we know it today and one could argue that it is still not complete. The paint along some walls is unfinished; some planned projects were never completed due to Hearst's failing health and the exorbitant cost. It took so long to build because William Hearst was so whimsical: the Neptune Pool, one of the Castle's most famous sights, was rebuilt no less than three times. If something was not to Hearst's satisfaction it was redone and sometimes a room was redone to accommodate another expansion. He took the "spare no expense" philosophy to the limit his family's fortune could provide.

For the fascinating details of Hearst's life, I recommend Wikipedia or a book. To summarize briefly, Hearst was the son of George Hearst and Phoebe Apperson. George Hearst was fortunate as he made his wealth from successful silver prospecting and mining in Utah. George's immense wealth paid for a year trip to Europe for William and his mother Phoebe. From the castles of Germany to the canals of Venice to the art museums of France, William left enchanted and drew on this inspiration for his own castle, La Cuesta Encantada ("The Enchanted Hill"), as he liked to call it. It wasn't until his late 50s after he had built up his own media empire that he began work on this immense project.

You cannot talk about William Hearst and La Cuesta Encantada without also mentioning Julia Morgan, Hearst's architect, in the same breath. Morgan, a friend of Phoebe Apperson, was recommended to Hearst by his mother. Many architects plainly told Hearst that his project was unfeasible. Morgan said she could do it. Thus began a partnership which spanned until Hearst's illness and eventual death. And she did do it. Despite Hearst's unpredictable changes and tastes, Morgan kept up. If Hearst was the visionary, Morgan was the vehicle that made this dream come to life.

An immaculate room in one of three guest houses!

The famous indoor pool just outside of the house. Yes, that's gold.

As I learned of the immense amount of wealth Hearst invested into this mansion, I originally thought it was all rather ostentatious. Despite his noted philanthropy, this castle seemed the antithesis of that idea. In the realm of decadent palaces, Hearst wasn't different from the European monarchs he idealized. Sure this mansion is one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen but wasn't this all a monument to Hearst's own ego?

I took a step back. Perhaps he began that way--perhaps he started with a desire simply to build a home for himself, but it didn't end that way. I learned of the parties he threw for friends and employees alike. He enjoyed people and he wanted to share his mansion with others--pools, tennis courts, comfy beds and all.

Did I mention art? Hearst Castle is considered a museum as it displays a menagerie of tapestries, paintings, sculptures, carvings, and artifacts. At times I found myself exclusively snapping pictures of all the art I saw during my tours. Hearst collected art not just for his own viewing pleasure but for others' enjoyment as well. He admitted as much during an interview. When asked if the pleasure he received from viewing his art equaled the money he spent on the pieces, he replied that his pleasure was second to the joy his guests and visitors felt when they saw the art. Considering he compiled many of his pieces before the outbreak of WWII, he protected history from the destructive throes of war and Nazi pillaging.

Before he died Hearst wanted to leave the estate not to his children but to the University of California Berkeley instead so college students could benefit from touring it and viewing the art. Unfortunately the University could not manage it at the time. Instead the estate was left in the Hearst Trust and after a few years remaining unsold on the open market, Hearst's heirs pulled the mansion from the market and gave it to the State of California. Since 1957 millions of people including myself have toured this historic landmark.

Upon further reflection, we need landmarks like the Hearst Castle. It provides a connection to the past: the building itself is living history in addition to the objects it houses. The story behind the mansion is inspiring: how an older man, who was just beginning his adventure (unlike most men his age), collaborated with a woman architect, who was certainly a rarity in her field, to build a wonder for posterity to enjoy. While the United States may lack the timeless monuments of age-old civilizations from around the globe, we make up for it with buildings like the Hearst Castle that embody American ideals: individual creativity, cultural diffusion (through art), and vision.

It took twenty eight years before construction stopped, which is telling. Hearst's goal was never about finishing his house; he enjoyed the process too much: tinkering, experiment, and creating. That is inspiring. It tells me never to settle; don't strive for contentment. Strive for greener pastures, for new opportunities. While tearing down my life and rebuilding it is hopefully not necessary, there is always room for subtle changes. I should always dream, envision future possibilities, and set new goals.

Well, this article is about all you and I can handle at this point. Stay tuned for Part II!