Last night I attended a language exchange drinking party. During the conversation I added a new onomatopoeia to my repertoire: waku waku. It translates as being excited or thrilled for the future (it is the Japanese interpretation for the action of physically shaking or trembling expectantly). I also learned "goro goro": rolling around lazily in bed. While "goro goro" describes my mindset this weekend, "waku waku" is how I feel about the events which are continually unfolding in this new year.
But first a recap of Hetomato, my half-naked man's festival. Why did I do it? I think the more appropriate question is why wouldn't I do it? Within Kyushu and the Goto islands, this festival is unique to the small town of Sakiyama yet with a TV crew from Tokyo in attendance, I wonder if Hetomato is the only festival of its type in Japan too. According to my co-workers, the festival began over 100 years ago: each year the same rituals are followed. While no one knows the meaning behind Hetomato nor why it is still being celebrated, that doesn't stop the young men of Sakiyama from taking off their clothes, strapping on a fundoshi, smearing charcoal all over their bodies, and parading a giant straw sandal around town with all the single ladies they can grab.
I was under no obligation to do it but I wanted to participate anyways once I learned several of my co-workers were committed/pressured to attend. I continually endeavor to say "yes" to any request/question asked of me and this time I was no different. When Dan said he wanted to do it as well, I felt even more comfortable with my decision; if I'm not mistaken, this was his fourth year of doing Hetomato. He was kind enough to answer all my questions during the afternoon.
We arrived at school around 11:00am and enjoyed a lunch made for the men by the women teachers and student parents. Especially in rural Goto some of Japan's traditions like gender roles are still very much a reality. We then proceeded to the shrine where we stripped and changed into fundoshi. It was uncomfortably tight but I got used to it as much as one can get used to a giant diaper. You don't want your loincloth falling off in front of the community where you teach twice a week.
The first event was the sumo wrestling. The elementary school students were the first to do it; that was cute. Next were the men: now many of the men were completely drunk; that is part of the tradition. I was not drunk and my ankles were iffy after injuring them last month so I did not participate but merely watched. Wow...some guys were absolutely shit-faced. Before he wrestled, one guy in particular would get down in some yoga table top position thrusting his hips and chest up using his arms and legs as support. Sumo custom is to throw salt on the ground before wrestling: another guy took the salt pot and dumped most of it on his head. When Japanese people get drunk, they hold nothing back. It was my first sumo "event" (though all the men were either half the size or a 1/3 of the weight of an actual sumo wrestler)!
During the sumo event I had my fundoshi on under my normal clothes which was nice because it was fairly breezy that morning. We split into two teams: white and red. I was on the white team with the rest of my teachers and students. I did not understand the purpose of the next event or even how to tell who won. We threw around this giant straw ball with a rope back and forth. Whoever caught it had to throw it as quickly as they could or the others would tackle them. It was dangerous though because there were old people, children, and people with cameras watching! The drunk guy who liked to do his poses before losing a sumo contest? At one point his ball throw flew like a cannonball into a ditch. I threw the ball once and caught it a second time before I was attacked by people on both times. HA! It was bizarre and ended pretty quickly.
After that were several rounds of tsunahiki or more tug-of-war. Pictured above are Koida Sensei, the fourth grade teacher at Sakiyama Elementary, and I pulling the rope; he looks absolutely wiped! I always love playing that game. I know my side won at least once. I certainly went all out and my friends took good pictures of me looking tough and fierce--the opposite of who I am in reality.
Last but not least was the grand finale and the purpose of the bizarre festival: the sandal carrying FEAT (or feet) OF STRENGTH. All the men carried a giant straw sandal around town periodically lowering to put women on it and throw them up in the air three times. Up until now I have never experienced something so strange and I doubt I will be so involved in anything like this ever again. It was tiring but I loved experiencing this unique aspect of Goto culture and the camaraderie I established with the other men. I certainly earned some points with the locals; people periodically stop me and say, "Hey, I saw you doing Hetomato. Great job!"
At the end of the ceremony we carried the sandal to another shrine. On a stone block next to it lay the remnants of last year's sandal, which naturally decays over time! HOW COOL IS THAT? We placed the sandal on top of it officially ending Hetomato. I had an embarrassing interview with TV crews with Tokyo from Goto about why I was doing Hetomato (in Japanese). Hopefully they didn't use my footage! Honestly Dan and I must be members of a small handful of foreigners who have participated in this peculiar tradition. The evening ended with a free dinner and drinks provided by the school and the city of Sakiyama, which was very generous. I enjoyed chatting with my teachers and the Sakiyama locals in a relaxed setting after a long day's work.
On Yonder Horizon
Since doing Hetomato I am enjoying taking life in the slow lane. I go to work same as always, hit the gym, and sometimes visit the onsen/hot springs situated at the base of Mt. Onidake, Fukue's largest mountain and volcano. The onsen is rich in iron so the water is a curious reddish-brown but it is relaxing as all get out. I have a few plans on the horizon that will keep me busy soon enough.
On the 10th-11 I will be in Nagasaki with some of my teachers, the same ones who I have dined and sung karaoke with several times. They will offer me a special tour of the city which will include visiting the Chinese lantern festival, seeing some historical sights, and a meditation session at Kodai-Ji, a Zen Buddhist temple. I am really looking forward to this experience as a chance to sit in silent reflection and clear my mind. In typical Zen fashion, I am told monks will hit you on the head with a board if you are falling asleep or request it (to clear one's mind). HOW COOL IS THAT? I anticipate this being a very rewarding experience indeed.
In late February I will run my first half marathon. It is called the Tsubaki (Camelia) Marathon. I heard it is in Kishiku and Miiraku, two small towns further north and west from Fukue. I'm slowly easing into running again but I am confident I will be ready by the time the race comes around.
I am pondering a trip to Taiwan in the spring. I would like to get one more big trip in before my contract ends. Other than that I will simply camp out here saving money for when my girlfriend and two friends visit this August before I return to the States. After my contract expires I will be nomadic for about a month which will include visits to Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Nagasaki, and of course Goto. I am really looking forward to the summer though I must admittedly begin my planning now!