When in Japan, Dress Like the Japanese Do
According to my dear mother, I dress like a scrub. That is an entirely accurate assessment. In addition to possessing no sense of style, I dress simply for practical, utilitarian purposes. I am a damn fireball: it doesn’t take a ton of exertion to get my blood flowing and internal engine revving. Thus even in the heart of winter I still wear a short-sleeve shirt because colder-blooded people will inevitably overheat buildings, a simply intolerable prospect for my warm temperament.
It shouldn’t be a surprise then that my fashion standards bottomed out to a record low with the purchase of Crocs yesterday afternoon. You are free to laugh of course but this purchase was made for several practical purposes:
1. In schools, gymnasiums traditional restaurants, shrines and certain historical buildings, and houses one is required to remove their shoes; in the former two you must have a change of shoes that have never been worn outside. I go to four schools a week so I bring the same pair of shoes with me to work. It is imperative to have shoes one can slip on and out easily for going outside or using the restroom (the restroom offers several sets of slippers).
2. Previously I used tabi gutsu. I bought these when I first arrived thinking teachers wore them (also they were cheap). It turns out these are workmen shoes—acceptable of course but very peculiar as I was the only teacher wearing them in all four of my schools. The tabi gutsu also became harder to slip on the more I wore them. They are also very flat shoes which I believe contributed to my ankle’s slow and lagging recovery.
3. At first I tried to find a pair of tennis shoes but they were all too narrow. I find it hard to believe that I have wide, fat feet but by Japanese standards anything is possible. Enter Crocs. For less than $4, I could buy a pair of comfortable, wide, easy slip-on shoes. It was an offer I couldn’t refuse. Furthermore Japan doesn’t have the same stigma towards Crocs as the U.S. So there you have it.
It’s very amusing seeing my teachers dressed for meetings or special events at school. For various functions they may be dressed up but will wear tennis shoes or simply slippers inside. Their business shoes remain in the school lobby for use in the world. The use of shoes in different places and the lack of care people feel about their shoes is a unique but refreshing cultural difference.
Bathing at the Onsen
I am endeavoring to use the onsen more and more. It is a pleasant experience especially in winter and helps loosen up my muscles. It costs about $5 and I can stay for as long as I like. I doubt I stay for longer than forty minutes. Even outside with the winds and chill cooling my upper body, my lower body still gets overheated and my muscles relax to such an extent that I feel disturbingly powerless. Despite that it is an essential Japanese experience and so I try to go once or twice a week.
Yesterday when I went to the onsen I ran into one of my teachers. He said he typically bathes for two hours, which absolutely blows my mind. I definitely don’t have the stamina or time for that. Hey. Want to hear about onsen etiquette? Let’s talk about etiquette.
1. The vast majority of onsen separate the genders though I did bathe in one in Akita where the genders were mixed (private “family” baths also exist).
2. Strip down and wash yourself completely with soap and shampoo before entering the onsen. Typically the room will have stools you sit on with an extendable showerhead; others may offer a shower room. A small face towel may be provided for scrubbing.
3. You can use the face towel for modesty while entering the onsen but do not let it touch the water. Many Japanese people will put it on their head or on a rock next to them.
4. Relax. Don’t swim but bathe quietly. No cameras are allowed of course.
5. Tattoos: tattoos are typically taboo though I’m told covering it up with a bandage can work. Tattoos are associated with the yakuza or the “mafia”/criminal network. Foreigners are sometimes given leeway but it’s good to check with the establishment beforehand, simply wear a bandage, or reserve a private bath.
Big Brass Visit
In late summer I participated in a skit my mentor Dan, my co-worker Tsutsumi Sensei, and several of my sixth grade elementary school students presented in Tokyo last fall. The presentation’s purpose was to show the development of Goto’s English curriculum specifically at Sakiyama Elementary School, which probably has the most accelerated English program on the island. My role was very simple but fun: I dressed up as the “King of Goto” ordering the students to convince the audience, which included international ambassadors and teachers and students from all over Japan, to visit Goto; the students then laid out the reasons in English why Goto is a wonderful place to visit. Fortunately I will receive a copy of the presentation this week but I was told it went really well. Additionally the Ministry of Education included a brief transcript about the presentation in their newsletter with my picture!
Evidently Tokyo enjoyed the presentation because in two weeks they are sending a member from the Ministry of Education to Sakiyama Elementary School to observe our classes. It’s an exciting prospect and while I am a little nervous my several observation classes last fall prepared me for occasions like this. It will be just another day/adventure at Sakiyama no surprise there!
Wrapping Up: This weekend I will go to Nagasaki with some of my co-workers from Midori Elementary School. As Nagasaki locals, they will offer me a special tour of the city! My next post will document my experiences there.